Author/作者: 杜小雯 (Xiao)
English Editor/英文母语编辑: Isabell
眼睛累了不想看屏幕？在路上不方便阅读？您可以来听作者们为您朗读的这个博客喔！Don’t feel like reading? You don’t have to! Tune in to listen to our authors read you this blog.
中文原声 – Chinese by 杜小雯 （Xiao）
英文原声 – English by Isabell (伊莎)
My love story with Puglia started when I went there on a study trip about 3 years ago.
I like the slower pace of life and the warmer hearts of southern Italy. Every evening when the weather is pleasant, people will bring their chairs into the street to chat with their neighbours, this atmosphere reminds me of simple and genuine village life, much like the village I grew up in. The Puglian seaside is in walking distance, and the sea breeze can make any hints of anxiety simply disappear. After dinner one evening, a couple of my friends met me for a walk. As my dear friend and study trip buddy Nikki emphasised, the “passagiata”, is the best expression of Italian slow life. What’s more, the food here is fresh and delicious, and surprisingly, it can be found at relatively low prices. Although it is reportedly extremely difficult to land a job here, it has to be said that the lifestyle here is more original and healthier. I cannot help but think that it would be a dream to live here as a freelancer (working as a writer or blogger, etc.).
The initial intention behind my decision to study and work in Italy was not only having the choice to experience the world’s largest wine producing country since 2015, but more importantly, it was the lifestyle that drew me in. In Italy I found a balance between work and life. It is a place that makes you want to give up the so-called “perfectionist”, workaholic mindset and find the true meaning of life. That place satisfied my most primitive desires for sunshine, delicious food and closer relationships with others. Life is a journey, and when my feet led me there, I simply did not want to leave.
蒙特堡（Castel del Monte）
刚开始阅读日程表的时候、才疏学浅的我还以为是去参观一家名为“Castel del Monte”的酒庄。后来我们真的是去参观了个城堡！话说回来，探索一个产区背后富饶的文化底蕴、是真正了解这个产区的基石。建立在海拔530米的山丘上，这座八边形的城堡，由神圣罗马帝国皇帝腓德烈二世（Frederick II）于1229-1249年间建造。被《意大利科学、文学与艺术百科全书》描述为“腓德烈二世建立的最迷人的城堡”，并在1996年被列入世界文化遗产名录。这个出现在意大利铸造的一分欧元硬币上的图案是普利亚、乃至意大利南部的标志性建筑。
When I first started reading the program schedule for the trip, instinctively I assumed it was to visit a winery called “Castel del Monte”. Later what we actually ended up visiting was a real castle! In fact, exploring the rich cultural background behind the Castel del Monte production area provided a glimpse into this regions foundations, it was a way to truly understand this wine producing area and the people. The castle is found on a hill, 540 meters above sea level, this octagonal structure was built by the Roman Emperor Frederick II from 1229 to 1249. It is described by the Encyclopedia Italiana as “the most fascinating castle ever built by Frederick II”, it was included in the UNESCO world cultural heritage list in 1996 and you can find the image of it on the Italian one cent coin, cast to commemorate a landmark building, in Puglia as well as for the whole of southern Italy.
Castel del Monte DOC
目前，在普利亚（Puglia）大区一共有4个DOCG保证法定产区命名，其中3个名字中都有蒙特堡。这3个DOCG分别是：Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG、Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG 和 Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG。与此同时蒙特堡本身还有一个范围更广的法定产区酒种，即Castel del Monte DOC。虽说范围更广，仅在Barletta-Andria-Trani省和大城市Bari允许生产Castel del Monte DOC葡萄酒。
At present, there are 4 DOCGs – Guaranteed Designation of Origin – (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in the Puglia region, of which, 3 have “Castel del Monte” in their names. The names of the three DOCGs are: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserve DOCG and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG. At the same time, Castel del Monte itself has a wider range of legal wine producing areas, namely Castel del Monte DOC. That being said, the production of the DOC Castel del Monte wines is only allowed in the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani and in the metropolitan city of Bari.
意大利唯一的桃红酒保证法定产区命名：Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG
The only DOCG dedicated to rosé wine: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG
黑博比诺（Bombino Nero）葡萄几乎只分布在Castel del Monte DOC法定产区，当地的酒农采用Alberello头部整形灌木栽培来种植黑博比诺。黑博比诺葡萄是意大利南部采收季最晚的葡萄之一，通常在九月末十月初被采摘。然而同一串葡萄上的成熟度仍然不均衡，一些没有完全成熟的果粒含有较高的酸度。加上果皮较薄且脆弱特性，使得黑博比诺葡萄特别适合酿造清新、柔和、颜色鲜艳的桃红：细腻，有愉悦的花香及柑橘的微妙香气，有良好的酸度和矿物气息。因为这类桃红葡萄酒非常好地展现了当地风土，Castel del Monte Bombino Nero在2011年升级为DOCG保证法定产区，成为了目前意大利唯一的桃红酒保证法定产区命名。
Bombino Nero grapes are almost exclusively grown in Castel del Monte DOC’s legal production areas, and local wine growers use Alberello’s head training bush-vines to grow Bombino Nero. Bombino Nero grapes are some of the last to ripen in southern Italy, it is usually picked at the end of September and the beginning of October. However, the maturity of each bunch of grapes is normally still uneven, and some of the berries that are not fully ripe contain higher acidity levels; the berry skins are also relatively thin and delicate. The variety’s principal current use is as a colour-enhancer for Rosato (rosé) wines. Bombino Nero grapes bleed their colour into the wine very quickly, before the bitter tannins, which makes it especially suitable for making fresh, soft and well-coloured rosé: it has a delicate and pleasant fragrance of flowers and citrus fruit, good acidity and mineral flavours. Because this kind of rosé displays the local terroir amazingly well, Castel del Monte Bombino Nero was upgraded to a DOCG in 2011, becoming the only DOCG for Rosé in Italy so far.
我们乘坐的车在半途出现故障，刚好停在了葡萄园的路边 (这个概率还是相当高的，普利亚的葡萄园无处不在)。我们一起下车去和教授们学习了Alberello的整形方式。最早的记录起源于希腊。2014年的潘泰莱里亚（Pantelleria）“vite ad alberello” (head-trained bush vines) 头部整形灌木种植法被列为UNESCO联合国教科文组织的非物质文化遗产名录。这种整形方式使得葡萄藤离地面很近、且具有非常好的保水能力。
On one of the outings throughout our stay in Puglia, our vehicle broke down, we happened to stop at the side of a vineyard (The chances of this happening was quite high, since vineyard is literally everywhere). We got off the bus together to learn about the Alberello training system, a system that possibly found its earliest application in Greece. In 2014, the Pantelleria “Vite ad Alberrello” (head-trained bush vines) training system was included to the list of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage practices. The bush is trained to be very close to the ground and has great water holding capacity.
Walking in the vineyard is the best way to learn about it; chatting with the vintner to learn the stories of the vineyard. Our professor, Proff. Peterlunger acted as a translator for us three foreign students (myself and my companions, Nikki and Nancy) since we were still learning Italian. The winery owner told me that he would get up at 4 o’clock in the morning to go for a walk in the vineyard, listen to the voice of the vines and to touch the grape leaves. I just couldn’t help laughing out loud. Realising that he was not joking, I quickly put on a serious face, he then continued by saying, ”The best nourishment for vineyards is the footprints of winemakers”. (Fun Fact: This line was also included in the wine movie “Bottle Shock”).
It was at this moment, under the abundant sunshine in Puglia, that I suddenly fully understood the meaning of this sentence. The crafting of all high-quality wines cannot be separated from the meticulous care that goes into it along the way. To provide another illustration of this notion; playing music in the wine cellar is reflection of care that translates into the final product, it is that extra effort put in that brings this living drink into its best possible expression. The same analogy can be used for any profession; a blogger for example, when creating a wonderful blog, must carefully consider the words and deliberate repeatedly. This process continues until you don’t want to change even one single word or any punctuation. The blogger is the first to read his/her own work and the winemaker is also the first person to taste his/her own wine. Although the work might not necessarily be recognised by the public, it does not matter because the author (in any profession) will know that they did their best, and have no regrets.
The list of wineries visited during this study tour, and I will write a separate blog as part of the “Puglia series” for each of the wineries below:
- Torre Vento
- Produttori di Manduria
- Antinori – TORMARESCA
- Museo della Civiltà del Vino Primitivo
- Gianfranco Fino
During this trip, we also spent time walking in the chic white & grey world of Alberobello, known as “Paradise Town.” After dinner, the students accompanied the knowledgeable and approachable professors’ Peterlunger and Celotti to the seaside to watch the stars. As we gazed, I understood that the best state of being is not to move forward blindly, but instead, to enjoy every moment of life. I will always remember how lucky I am to have been a Vinifera student. Gratitude is a state of mind and this is how I will contribute to the wine industry in my own way, gradually living up to the potential that professors saw in me during my entrance interview. “Do not forget your initiative mind, so as to achieve your final goal”.
Vinifera P9 学生，
Vinifera P9 student,
羲和葡萄酒传媒 – 晴格格